====== Breitling ====== {{wst>menue|Breitling}} {{wst>image_r|Breitling, Léon|Léon Breitling (1860-1914)\\ © [[Breitling]]}} {{wst>image_r|Breitling, Gaston|Gaston Breitling (1884-1927)\\ © [[Breitling]]}} **Breitling** is a Swiss watch manufacturer ===== Short time measure as the main accent ===== {{wst>image_cl|Breitling|Fabrik 1892|Historical image of the Breitling plant in [[1892]]|270px}} [[Breitling, Léon|Léon Breitling]], the son of German parents who, looking for work, migrated to Switzerland, was already fascinated by the idea of short-term measurement during his watchmaking apprenticeship. At the age of only 24 years, in [[1884]] he manufactures the first counter [[chronograph]] on his own in [[Saint-Imier]]. The founding of the Breitling brand is accordingly dated to this year. In [[1892]], Breitling moved to the watchmaker town [[La Chaux-de-Fonds]]. Here, in the newly built production facility //G. Léon Breitling S.A., [[Montbrillant Watch Manufactory]]// one specializes first on [[pocket watch|pocket]] [[chronograph]]s. ===== Wristwatch and board chronographs for pilots ===== {{wst>image_cl|Breitling|Premier Poussoir 1923|First chronograph with pusher, [[1923]]|150px}} When [[Breitling, Léon|Léon Breitling]] dies in [[1914]] with only 54 years, the [[manufacture]] passes on to his son [[Breitling, Gaston|Gaston]]. This one, in the wake of the newly emerging development of aviation, begins to be interested in aeronautics and starts reflections on how to construct watches suitable to this application. Alsready from [[1914]] on watches with [[chronograph]]s are manufactured for sporting and military purposes, and in [[1915]] Gaston Breitling produces the first chronograph with [[Central seconds|central seconds hand]] and 30-minute counter. {{wst>image_r|Breitling,_Willy|Willy Breitling (1913-1979)}} With this [[tool watch|bracelet tool]] he enables aircraft pilots to perform time measurements and other calculations during flight. In [[1923]] Breitling develops the first chronograph [[pusher]]; previously the start and the resetting of the short time measure still had been performed with the [[crown]]. Gaston Breitling dies at 30 July [[1927]]. It is not until [[1932]] that [[Breitling, Willy|Willy]], his only son, can adopt the company management. He continues the innovation of its predecessor. Already in [[1930]] the company can offer about 40 different [[chronograph]] models. The invention of the two-pusher chronograph in [[1934]] underscores the dominance of the company. In the year [[1936]] Willy Breitling brings a famous [[on-board clock|on-board]] chronograph for airplanes on the market, which is later used by over 30 airlines, and has since supplied the Royal Air Force with cockpit clocks for their aircrafts. ===== The classics Chronomat and Navitimer ===== {{wst>image_cl|Breitling|Chronomat 1942|[[Breitling Chronomat|The original Chronomat from 1942]]}} [[1942]] Breitling presents the model [[Breitling Chronomat|Chronomat]], a [[chronograph]] with slide rule and [[manual winding]], which is officially introduced in the U.S. Army Air Force. By the way, the name combines "chronograph" with "mathematics" (not "automatic"!), in allusion to the calculations possible with this kind of watch. The best-know model of the company beneath the [[Breitling Chronomat|Chronomat]] is the [[Breitling Navitimer|Navitimer]] with built-in slide rule, developed in [[1952]]. [[1986]] a new edition is brought to market. This wrist chronograph can, by its ability to achieve a correct air traffic control, replace an on-board instrument. With its help time measurement, speed calculation and measurement of fuel consumption can be performed. The Navitimer is chosen as official [[pilot's watch]] by the pilot union AOPA, whose logo adorns the first models. In [[1962]] Breitling developes the [[Breitling Cosmonaute|Cosmonaute]] that is worn by the astronaut Scott Carpenter during his space mission with the Aurora 7 capsule on 24 May 1962. This watch has a 24 hour dial. ===== The automatic chronograph calibre 11 'Chronomatic' ===== {{wst>image_cr|Breitling|Chronomatic|Breitling chronograph with Calibre 11 "Chronomatic"|180px}} In [[1965]], the Swiss companies G. Leon Breitling S.A. in [[Geneva]], [[Heuer-Leonidas]] S.A. in [[Biel]] and [[Dubois Dépraz]] S.A. in Le Lieu had teamed up together on a secret project to bring on the market the first chronograph of the world with [[automatic]] winding. The company [[Buren Watch Company|Buren S.A.]] in Büren on the Aare was commissioned to develop the automatic movement; [[Dubois Dépraz]] provided the chronograph mechanism, completely mounted on a [[plate]]. On 3 March [[1969]], they simultaneously presented its product in [[Geneva]], New York, Hong Kong and Beirut under the name '[[Chronomatic]]'. The [[barrel]] of the watch is wound by means by an eccentric [[weight segment]] ([[microrotor]]). Because of the movement construction, the crown is placed left. But already on 10 January of that year they had already been overrun by the company [[Zenith]]/[[Movado]], who had presented their own development of an [[automatic]] [[chronograph]] movement, called "[[El Primero]]" (in English "the first") to the eyes of the world. While the Calibre "Chronomatic" only beats with 19,800 semi-vibrations, its rival "El Primero" oscillates with for that time unusual 36.000 semi-vibrations. Both developments mark, each in itself, the excellence of Swiss watchmaking art. ===== Quartz crisis and restart ===== {{wst>image_l|Schneider,_Ernest|Ernest Schneider}} In the course of the [[quartz crisis]], which, due to a rapid price decline, leads to the extinction of mechanical watches, Breitling launches some models with [[quartz]] movements in the late 1970s. But then also this brand, like most of its competitors, is meet by sudden fate It finds itself in acute financial distress. Unavoidable consequence is the sellout of the last stocks of their own movements, as well as original and manufacturing equipment. Breitling laid off all workers and halted production in [[1978]]. A few weeks later, in May [[1979]], Willy Breitling dies. The industrialist [[Schneider, Ernest|Ernest Schneider]], himself an avid pilot, purchased the trademark from the Breitling family in April [[1979]], shortly before the death of Willy Breitling, and brings the old model range of wrist chronographs back to life. Headquarters of the new **Breitling Montres SA**, which is officially registered at the 30th November [[1982]], is now [[Grenchen]]. Schneider would manage Breitling's growth from the 1980s until it is sold in [[2017]] to CVC Capital Partners and former [[Richemont]] executive [[Georges Kern]]. ===== Continuous success under the leadership of Ernest Schneider since the 1980s ===== {{wst>image_cr|Breitling|Chronomat Frecce Tricolori 1984|[[Breitling Chronomat]]\\ First Model: Frecce Tricolori, [[1984]]}} During the renaissance of the mechanical watch the Breitling brand experiences a rapid resurgence. Primarily involved is the leader model [[Breitling Chronomat|Chronomat]], presented in [[1984]], which, with its new design and its striking appearance, meets with the approval of the buyers. This [[chronograph]] with [[automatic]] winding has been developed for the Italian air squadron 'Frecce Tricolori' and can withstand accelerations of up to 20 G. The striking [[pilot's watch]]es meet the public on best response, and Breitling positiones itself in this market segment as a watch manufacturer of the hour. It would also desirable to clarify that the Chronomat has nothing in common with its predecessor of [[1942]] than just the name. The former watch, both with its looks as well as its integrated slide rule, was much more similar to the model [[Breitling Navitimer|Navitimer]]. {{wst>image_cl|Breitling|Emergency|[[Breitling Emergency]]|280px}} With the [[Breitling Emergency|Emergency]], the company in [[1995]] presents as unique world novelty, an [[expedition watch]] which can save lives in an emergency. It is a [[quartz watch]] with built-in mini transmitter that can emit emergency signals at the frequency 121.5 MHz. The high popularity of the company is further increased, when it acts as main sponsor of the first nonstop balloon flight around the earth The balloon Orbiter 3 of the Swiss Bertrand Piccard and the Briton Brian Jones appears almost for three weeks in all news with the unmistakable signature "Breitling", before the flight, after a period of exactly 19 days, 21 hours and 47 minutes, is completed successfully on 21 March [[1999]]. [[2000]] Breitling relocates to a new headquarters in [[Grenchen]]. After the acquisition of [[Kelek]], a renowned specialist in [[complication]]s, their expertise is introduced into the //Breitling Chronométrie//, which is located in [[La Chaux-de-Fonds]] and opened in [[2002]]. On the 50th Anniversary of the first model presentation, in [[2002]] the anniversary model [[Breitling Navitimer 50th Anniversary|Navitimer 50th Anniversary]] is launched, which is certified as [[chronometer]] by the [[COSC]], as are now all watches of Breitling (also including all electronic watch movements!). So since [[1999]] Breitling is the first and only watch manufacturer in the world, who lets certify all of the timepieces as [[chronometer]]. Another well-known watch series of the manufacturer is called "[[Breitling Montbrillant|Montbrillant]]" in reference to the //Rue Montbrilliant// as the head office of the Breitling factory in [[La Chaux-de-Fonds]]. The special model [[Breitling Montbrillant|Montbrillant 1903]] appears in [[2003]] as a tribute to the historic flight of the Wright brothers, which exactly one hundred years earlier, on 17 December 1903, had marked the birth of aviation. Other well-known models are [[Breitling Montbrillant Datora|Montbrillant Datora]] and [[Breitling Montbrillant Olympus|Montbrillant Olympus]]. {{wst>image_cr|Breitling|for Bentley GMT}} ===== Breitling for Bentley ===== During a collaboration with the luxury car manufacturer Bentley about [[2004]] Breitling launched the Model Series [[Breitling for Bentley]], starting with the model [[Breitling Bentley Le Mans|Breitling for Bentley Le Mans]], to date the largest in-house fabricated chronograph. The series is gradually extended and includes models like [[Breitling for Bentley Flying B]], [[Breitling for Bentley Flying B Chronograph|Flying B Chronograph]] or [[Breitling for Bentley Flying B No. 3|Flying B No. 3]]. Here one manages the feat of congenially transferring the noble flair of the automobiles to the watches - for example by adopting design forms or taking original Bentley varnish colors and use them as dial colors. ===== Five model ranges ===== Today Breitling establishes all models in five main ranges - //Navitimer// --- with the series * [[Breitling Navitimer|Navitimer]] and * [[Breitling Montbrillant|Montbrillant]]. - //Windrider// --- with the well-known model * [[Breitling Chronomat|Chronomat]] and its numerous relatives; * apart from the //Navitimer// models all [[pilot's watch]]es of the brand are contained herein. - //Aeromarine// --- with the [[dive watch]]es, including the well-known models * //Avenger//, * //Colt// and * [[Breitling Superocean|SuperOcean]]. - //Professional// --- smaller series with professionally orientated models, eg. with the * [[expedition watch]] [[Breitling Emergency|Emergency]] and the * [[Breitling Skyracer|Skyracer]] chronograph. - //Breitling for Bentley// --- (see above). ===== In-house manufacture movement and new Chronomat at the 125th anniversary ===== {{wst>image_cl|Breitling|B01|In-house [[column wheel]] chronograph movement [[Breitling B01|Calibre B01]]}} {{wst>image_cr|Breitling|Chronomat B01|Breitling Chronomat B01|220px}} On the occasion of the 125th anniversary in [[2009]] Breitling surprises with the first in-house produced [[manufacture movement]], the [[column wheel]] [[chronograph]] Calibre [[Breitling B01|B01]]. It has a [[chronometer certification]] and impressive 70 hours of [[power reserve]]. Its new architecture brings features like a patented self-centering system, a heart lever for the zero-position and an exclusive regulator mechanism, which allows to adapt the adjustment quickly and easily to the watch wearer. Also with regard to automatic manufacturing and maintenance new paths were followed. This movement, which is fully developed and produced by Breitling, was, also in [[2009]], for the first time built into in a revised model of the [[Breitling Chronomat|Chronomat]] the model [[Breitling Chronomat B01|Chronomat B01]]. ===== Georges Kern and CVC Partners ===== London-based private equity firm CVC Parters purchased 80% of Breitling in March [[2017]] for an estimated $870 million. This took control from the Schneider family. Respected executive [[Kern, Georges|Georges Kern]], until then Head of Watchmaking at [[Richemont]] and CEO of [[IWC]] also invested, and joined Breitling as CEO. The new company re-focused according to the theme of land ([[Breitling Transocean|Transocean]]), sea ([[Breitling Superocean|Superocean]]), and air ([[Breitling Navitimer|Navitimer]]). Kern brought in prominent collector Fred S. Mandelbaum to help set the historic lines in order and designer Sylvain Berneron to create new products. Kern also brought noted watchmaker [[Eisenegger, Kilian|Kilian Eisenegger]] from [[IWC]] to help build the company's in-house movement expertise. The company's [[Breitling B01|Cal. B01]] would provide a basis for [[chronograph]] watches, while their [[Kenissi]] partnership with [[Tudor]] provided time-only movements. ===== Literature ===== *[[Breitling. Die Geschichte einer großen Uhrenmarke. 1884 bis heute]]; Author [[Benno Richter]]; ISBN 3766711350 *Musees d'Horlogerie, la Chaux-de-Fonds, le Locle; ISBN 3908184320 *Armbanduhren - Design Technik Geschichte; Author [[Lisa Wehrmann]]; ISBN 3899852540 *[[Das ZEITGEFÜHL-Uhrenbuch]]; Author [[Gerd-Lothar Reschke]]; ISBN 3-938607-61-0 ===== Address ===== Breitling SA\\ P.O. Box 1132\\ CH-2540 [[Grenchen]]\\ Tel. +41 32 654 54 54\\ Fax. +41 32 654 54 01 ===== Weblinks ===== *[[http://www.breitling.com/de/|Breitling SA]] (official website) *[[http://www.zeitgefuehl.de/breitling.php|ZEITGEFÜHL: Breitling - Die Uhr als Lustobjekt (company chronicle)]] {{tag>Watch_brands Watch_brands_Switzerland La_Chaux-de-Fonds Grenchen Saint-Imier Jura_triangle}}