rolex_submariner
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+ | ====== Rolex Submariner ====== | ||
+ | {{wst> | ||
+ | **Submariner** is a [[dive watch]] produced by [[Rolex]] since [[1954]], one of the most famous watch models in history. | ||
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+ | ===== History ===== | ||
+ | Rolex invented the water-resistant [[Rolex Oyster|Oyster]] case in [[1926]], raising the possibility of a watch that could be used in the water. The [[Rolex Oyster Perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] upped the ante by eliminating the need to unscrew the crown during use. The Rolex Oyster watches (with hand winding movements by [[Cortébert]]) formed the basis for the first dive watches, jointly developed by Rolex and [[Panerai]] in the 1930s. | ||
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+ | After World War II, diving and exploring became important, both in the military and as a civilian passtime. In the early 1950s, [[dive watch]]es began appearing on the market. The earliest models, from [[Panerai]], | ||
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+ | The critical characteristics of the Submariner developed over the first decade A clean inlaid rotating [[bezel]] with numerals, a dark dial without numeric index markers, a [[hand|Mercedes-shaped hour hand]], and protruding [[crown guard]]s. Other features, including the optional date window with [[cyclops]] magnifier and uni-directional bezel (a [[Blancpain]] patent), came later. Even the Submariner name wasn't uniformly used on dials and in advertising in the first decade of production. Yet the Submariner look has become so famous that even the earliest models are instantly recognizable to the general public and it is one of the most-counterfeited watches in history. | ||
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+ | Rolex has preserved the nature of the Submariner even as it evolved from tool to fashion accessory. No Submariner has a complication beyond a date wheel, for example, and the size and dimensions have remained remarkably consistent. Yet Rolex has bowed to the demands of luxury buyers by adding color (blue or green) to the dial and bezel and producing gold-cased models (some even with diamond markers). The Rolex Submariner remains one of the best-selling [[luxury watch]]es in the world. A sibling model with greater depth capabilities, | ||
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+ | ==== Early Submariners ==== | ||
+ | Rolex introduced their first commercial dive watches in [[1953]], shortly after the [[Blancpain Fifty Fathoms]] entered production. There is some controversy about when exactly the first references appeared, the order of their appearance, and the exact specifications at any given time. The three early references are Ref. 6200, with a thicker case, large crown, and [[Rolex A.296|Cal. A.296]] and References 6204 and 6205, with [[Rolex A.260|Cal. A.260]]. | ||
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+ | Ref. 6200, numerically the first, did not use the Submariner name and had more in common with the contemporary [[Rolex Explorer|Explorer]] than later models. It had a thick case with a large 8 mm screw-down crown and was rated for 200 meters (660 feet), though this was not printed on the dial. It had pencil-shaped stick hands, a " | ||
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+ | The next early Submariner was Ref. 6204, launched at the [[Basil Fair]] in [[1954]] and already in production at that time. This early model may have lacked the " | ||
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+ | The similar Ref. 6205 arrived at about the same time and most examples feature the Mercedes-style hands familiar on Submariner models today along with the same distinctive dial used in the Ref. 6204. Most importantly, | ||
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+ | The bezel was redesigned in [[1956]] with individual minute marks between 0 and 15, and the triangle at 0 was painted red. The cases for Ref. 6536 and Ref. 6538 were enlarged that year, along with a larger crown being fitted, further muddying the waters versus Ref. 6200. A [[chronometer]] option also appeared that year with [[Rolex 1030|Cal. 1030]], branded Ref. 6536/1 for the first two years and Ref. 5508 after [[1958]]. Ref. 6200 was renamed Ref. 5510 in [[1958]] and was finally updated to [[Rolex 1530|Cal. 1530]]. These models remained in production until [[1965]]. | ||
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+ | References | ||
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+ | * 6200 (1953-1958) - Big Crown, thick case, Cal. A296 | ||
+ | * 5510 (1958-1965) - [[Rolex 1530|Cal. 1530]] | ||
+ | * 6204 (1953-1955) - Small crown, thin case, [[Rolex A.260|Cal. A.260]] | ||
+ | * 6538 (1955-1965) - [[Rolex 1030|Cal. 1030]] | ||
+ | * 6205 (1953-1955) - Small crown, thin case, [[Rolex A.260|Cal. A.260]] | ||
+ | * 6536 (1955-1965) - [[Rolex 1030|Cal. 1030]] | ||
+ | * 6536/1 (1956-1958) - Cal. 1030, chronometer | ||
+ | * 5508 (1958-1965) - [[Rolex 1530|Cal. 1530]] | ||
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+ | ==== Classic Submariners ==== | ||
+ | {{wst> | ||
+ | *See Also [[Rolex Sea-Dweller]] | ||
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+ | The model came into its own in the 1960s, cemented in the public imagination after a Big Crown Submariner (Ref. 6538) was featured on the wrist of James Bond in the [[1962]] film, //Dr. No//. As sales of dive watches rose, Rolex began refining and standardizing the model, leading to a " | ||
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+ | The original models moved into the 1960s with refinements and new names. The thick case, large crown, and improved [[Rolex 1030|Cal. 1030]] was adopted across the line, and the early models were renamed. Ref. 6200 became Ref. 5510 in [[1958]] and the [[chronometer]] Ref. 6536/1 became Ref. 5508. References 6536 and 6538 continued on offer until [[1965]], though they received all these improvements as well. | ||
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+ | The first big change to the Submariner case came in late [[1958]] as [[crown guard]]s or " | ||
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+ | A non-chronometer alternative with crown guards was introduced in [[1962]], Ref. 5513. This was launched with [[Rolex 1530|Cal. 1530]] before moving to [[Rolex 1520|Cal. 1520]] later in the decade. It also remained in production even longer, finally being retired in [[1989]]. | ||
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+ | The next big addition was the first (and to date only) [[complication]] on a Submariner. The aptly-named **Submariner Date**, Ref. 1680, debuted in [[1966]] with [[Rolex 1575|Cal. 1575]]. This added a few other twists to the Submariner design. The domed crystal was replaced by a thick, flat mineral crystal with a " | ||
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+ | Up to [[1965]], Rolex used gilt printing on glossy black dials. This was then discontinued in favor of simpler white printing. Rolex also replaced the early [[radium]] lume paint with [[tritium]] in the early 1960s. | ||
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+ | Rolex continued supplying Submariners to military units, including Ref. 5513, 5513/17, 5514, and 5517 " | ||
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+ | Rolex also introduced a special version of their [[Rolex Oyster bracelet|Oyster bracelet]] in [[1969]]. Featuring an extra clasp, bracelet Ref. 9315 was only available on the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. | ||
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+ | Models | ||
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+ | * Ref. 5512 (1958-1978) - Crown guards, [[Rolex 1560|Cal. 1560]] a few years later, Officially Certified Chronometer on the dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 5513 (1962-1989) - Crown guards, [[Rolex 1530|Cal. 1530]] then Cal. 1520 a few years later, not a chronometer | ||
+ | * Ref. 5513/17 (1972-1978) - " | ||
+ | * Ref. 1680 (1966-1981) - Submariner Date, [[Rolex 1575|Cal. 1575]], many with "Red Line" text | ||
+ | * Ref. 5514 (1972-1978) - " | ||
+ | * Ref. 5517 (1972-1978) - " | ||
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+ | ==== Transitional Submariners ==== | ||
+ | The classic Submariner references (5512, 5513, and 1680) remained in production through the 1970s, the [[quartz crisis]], and the onslaught of Swiss and Japanese competition in the dive watch market. Once the mechanical watch market began opening up again, Rolex turned to updating these models. | ||
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+ | The " | ||
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+ | Between [[1983]] and [[1986]], Rolex transitioned to gloss black dials and added white gold surrounds to the markers. Production officially ended after [[1985]] but some sources claim that Transitional Ref. 16800 models continued in production until as late as [[1989]]. | ||
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+ | A very short-lived model, Ref. 168000 or " | ||
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+ | Another major upgrade to the Submariner line was a uni-directional rotating bezel. This was patented by [[Blancpain]] for their famous [[Blancpain Fifty Fathoms|Fifty Fathoms]] dive watch, which pre-dated the Submariner and served as a template for the category. But Blancpain ceased to be a going concern in the late 1970s and Rolex was then free to implement this concept starting in [[1981]]. At this time, Rolex also introduced Cal. 3085. | ||
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+ | The old non-date Submariner, Ref. 5513, remained in production as well. It was officially retired in [[1989]], though the chronometer Ref. 5512 was retired a decade earlier. | ||
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+ | Another contemporary development was the Ref. 93150 [[Rolex Oyster bracelet|Oyster bracelet]]. Appearing around [[1975]], it featured the diver clasp of previous versions but added solid links. | ||
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+ | Models | ||
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+ | * Ref. 16800 (1977-1989) - Submariner Date, [[Rolex 3035|Cal. 3035]], sapphire crystal and 1000 ft rating | ||
+ | * Ref. 16803 (1984-1988) - Steel and yellow gold | ||
+ | * Ref. 168000 (1987-1988) - " | ||
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+ | ==== Modern Submariners ==== | ||
+ | {{wst> | ||
+ | Rolex introduced 904L stainless steel in the late 1980s and a new line of movements, [[Rolex 3135|Cal. 3135]], in the new Submariner Date Ref. 16610 in [[1988]]. A similar non-date Submariner, Ref. 14060, followed around [[1990]] with [[Rolex 3000|Cal. 3000]]. These would be the core offerings for Rolex through the 1990s and 2000s before being updated as Ref. 116610 and 114060 with a new case and ceramic bezel in [[2010]]. | ||
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+ | Rolex enlarged the hour markers, the so-called "Maxi dial", starting in [[2003]] with the 20th anniversary model. This watch also featured a green bezel, earning the nickname, " | ||
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+ | Rolex introduced a new large case (called "Maxi case" or " | ||
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+ | On August 31, 2020, Rolex introduced the next-generation Submariner line. It features an all-new 41 mm case with wider-spaced but narrower lugs, a reversion to the smaller dial decorations, | ||
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+ | Models | ||
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+ | * Submariner Date - [[Rolex 3135|Cal. 3135]] | ||
+ | * Ref. 16610 (1988-2010) | ||
+ | * Ref. 16610LV (2003-2010) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 16618 (1988-2010) - Yellow gold, black dial and bezel (LN), blue dial and bezel (LB), silver and blue with diamonds (" | ||
+ | * Ref. 16613 (1988-2010) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 116610 (2010-2020) - Steel " | ||
+ | * Ref. 116610LN (2010-2020) - Steel, black dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 116610LV (2010-2020) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 116613LN (2009-2020) - Steel and yellow gold, black dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 116613LB (2009-2020) - Steel and yellow gold, blue dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 116618LN (2009-2020) - Yellow gold, black dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 116618LB (2009-2020) - Yellow gold, blue dial | ||
+ | * Ref. 116619LB (2008-2020) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 126610 (2020-present) - [[Rolex 3235|Cal. 3235]] 41 mm case | ||
+ | * Ref. 126610LN (2020-present) - Steel, black dial and bezel | ||
+ | * Ref. 126610LV (2020-present) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 126613LB (2020-present) " | ||
+ | * Ref. 126613LN (2020-present) - Steel and yellow gold, black dial and bezel | ||
+ | * Ref. 126618LB (2020-present) - Yellow gold, blue dial and bezel | ||
+ | * Ref. 126618LN (2020-present) - Yellow gold, black dial and bezel | ||
+ | * Ref. 126619LB (2020-present) " | ||
+ | * Submariner | ||
+ | * Ref. 14060 (1990-2002) [[Rolex 3000|Cal. 3000]] | ||
+ | * Ref. 14060M (2002-2012) - [[Rolex 3130|Cal. 3130]] Certified chronometer | ||
+ | * Ref. 114060 (2012--2020) - [[Rolex 3130|Cal. 3130]] " | ||
+ | * Ref. 124060 (2020-present) - [[Rolex 3230|Cal. 3230]] 41 mm case | ||
+ | * Ref. 124060 (2020-present) - Steel, black dial and bezel | ||
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+ | ===== See Also ===== | ||
+ | * [[Rolex Sea-Dweller]] | ||
+ | * [[Rolex Explorer]] | ||
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+ | {{tag> | ||
rolex_submariner.txt · Last modified: 03.07.2022 15:37 by 127.0.0.1