Patek Philippe Calatrava

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196, showing the classic Calatrava lugs
© Patek Philippe

The Calatrava is an elegant men's watch and watch range by Patek Philippe.

Info

In 1932, Patek Philippe introduced a simple round-faced watch inspired by Bauhaus design principles. The case was round, to reflect the shape of the movement wheels and the motion of the hands through the day. The model was named for the cruciform logo used by Patek Philippe, itself taken from the knights order which was founded 1158 in the city of Calatrava by the Abbot Raimondo.

A critical and innovative element of the original Calatrava, Ref. 96, was the lugs. Unusually for the time, they flowed gracefully from the edges of the case and tapered near the strap bar. This classic look inspired the entire watch industry to create elegant, integrated lugs and the look of that Ref. 96 Calatrava is still found in many dress watches today.

Despite this important design innovation, Patek Philippe introduced many other case styles shortly after introducing Ref. 96. Also called Calatrava, these included watches with "fancy" lugs (shaped like teardrops, claws, and flames), integrated tonneau cases, integrated bracelets, and officer's cases. All of these watches earned the Calatrava name due to their essential elements: A simple, round dial, classic proportions, and dressy elegance.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5120 Clous de Paris bezel
© Patek Philippe

Perhaps the most notable innovation in the Calatrava lineup came with the introduction of a Clous de Paris guilloche bezel in the 1973 Ref. 3520. This style returns to the essential and simple round case with thin lugs that stick straight out, all typical Bauhaus elements. But the "hobnail" decorated bezel transformed this simple design and became synonymous with the Calatrava line, eclipsing the original in the minds of many buyers.

Current References

Today, the Calatrava line includes a variety of styles:

All Current References

Historic References

Ref. 96

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227R, showing the classic Calatrava case shape
© Patek Philippe

The classic Patek Philippe Calatrava design was set in 1932 with the 96. Dozens of variants were introduced in the years since, but it wasn't until 1982 that a true successor to Ref. 96 was introduced, Ref. 3796. This lasted in production to 2004 when today's Ref. 5196 took up the reins.

  • 96 (1932) The original Calatrava, 31 mm diameter
  • 438 (1940's) Small seconds, smaller case
  • 448 (1950's) Small seconds, smaller case
  • 570 (1940's) Center seconds or small seconds, "oversized" 35.5 mm case, Cal. 27 SC
  • 2451 (1950's) Small seconds, small 30 mm case, Cal. 10-200
  • 2457 (1950's) Center seconds, small case
  • 2508 (1950's) Center seconds, "waterproof" shield under screwed case back, 35 mm case, Cal. 27 SC
  • 2509 (1950's) Small seconds, "waterproof" shield under screwed case back
  • 2526 (1950's) Small seconds, automatic PP 12-600 AT, porcelain dial
  • 2541 (1950's) Small seconds (2 different models?)
  • 2545 (1950's) Small seconds, Cal. 12-400, 33 mm, Gubelein/Tiffany
  • 2555 (1950's) Center seconds
  • 2588 (1950's) No seconds, thin
  • 2597 (1958) Travel watch: Pushers at 8 and 10 to move the hour hand forward and backward, just 90 made
  • 3439 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic
  • 3796 (1982-2004) Small seconds, Clous de Paris bezel sometimes but classic lugs
  • 3998 (1990's) Center seconds, automatic, date
  • 4897 Ladies, manual, no seconds, Cal. 215, classic Ref. 96 look with diamond bezel
  • 5127, 5118 (2008-2014) Automatic, center seconds, date, Cal. 324 S C, crown guards
  • 5196 (2004-present) Manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS Classic tapered lugs, solid case back
  • 5296, 5297, 5298 (2005-present) Automatic, center seconds, date, Cal. 324 S C Classic tapered lugs, sapphire case back
  • 5227 (2013-present) Automatic, center seconds, date, Cal. 324 SC Classic tapered lugs, hinged case back

Fancy Lugs

  • 1491 (1940's) Small seconds, connected ram's horn or scroll lugs
  • 1543 (1940's) Small seconds, oversized case, flared "Mickey Mouse" lugs, 35 mm
  • 1578 (1950's) Center seconds, spider lugs (also GM models)
  • 2428 (1940's) Small seconds, large beveled bar lugs
  • 2431 (1940's) Small seconds, flame lugs
  • 2592 (1950's) No seconds, external scrolled triangular lug housing under strap
  • 2452 (1950's) Small seconds, concave bezel, stepped curved lugs, Cal. 12-400, 35 mm
  • 2481 (1950's) Sometimes custom cloisonné dials, center seconds, concave bezel, stepped curved lugs, Cal. 27 SC, 37 mm
  • 5032 (1990's) No seconds, automatic, screw back, small beveled lugs, Cal. 240, 36 mm
  • 1513 (1950's) Small seconds, thin lugs
  • 2455 (1950's) Small seconds, slotted case and lug sides, thin lugs
  • 2510 (1950's) Small seconds, stepped case, thin lugs, Cal. 12-400, 36 mm
  • 1516 (1940's) Small seconds, creased Calatrava lugs
  • 2589 (1950's) No seconds, small and tapered, Calatrava lugs
  • 2458 (1950's) Small seconds, no bezel, straight scrolled lugs, 36 mm "Calatrava Jumbo"
  • 2460 (1950's) Center seconds with blue or (rarer) gold hand, small angled lugs, Cal. 27SC, 32 mm
  • 2466 (1950's) Center seconds, small double-angled lugs, Cal. 27SC, 32 mm
  • 3440 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic, small angled lugs, waterproof, Cal. 27-460, 34 mm
  • 3445 (1960's) Small seconds, almost Disco Volante case, automatic, date, small angled lugs, Cal. 27-460M, 35 mm
  • 2557 (1950's) Small seconds, small triangular lugs, embedded crown, 33 mm, Cal. 10-200
  • 2573 (1950's) No seconds or small seconds, thin case, small triangular lugs, 33 mm
  • 3411 (1960's) Center seconds, small triangular lugs, Cal. 27SC, 35 mm
  • 3416 (1960's) No seconds, small triangular lugs, 32 mm
  • 3420 (1960's) Small seconds, small claw lugs, anti-magnetic Cal. 27-AM 400 movement
  • 3542 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic, screw back, small triangular lugs, Cal. 27-460, 36 mm
  • 3593 (1970's) No seconds, automatic, small triangular lugs, Cal. 28-255C, 33 mm
  • 3718 (1989) Small seconds, automatic, 150th anniversary commemoration in steel for Japan, small triangular lugs
  • 3893 (1980's) Small seconds, small triangular lugs, 33 mm
  • 2585 (1950's) Small seconds, automatic, steel case, fancy PP crown, Cal. 12-600, very rare (perhaps 3 made), large angled lugs


  • 2584 (1950's) Small seconds, automatic, thin case and tiny crown, straight scrolled lugs
  • 3410 (1960's) Small seconds, antimagnetic, small scrolled lugs, 35 mm case, Cal. 27-AM-400
  • 3425 (1950's) Small seconds, automatic, thin waterproof, small scrolled lugs
  • 3429 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic, small scrolled lugs, Cal. 27-460, 35 mm
  • 2596 (1960's) Small seconds, flat square lugs
  • 2598 (1960's) Small seconds, thin, small straight lugs
  • 3423 (1960's) Center seconds, small straight lugs, 34 mm case, Cal. 27 SC
  • 3426 (1960's) No seconds, small straight lugs
  • 3442 (1960's) No seconds, square straight lugs, tiny
  • 3466 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic, straight lugs, steel case, Cal. 27-460
  • 3470 (1960's) No seconds, straight lugs, small
  • 3483 (1967) Center seconds, steel case, thin lugs, Cal. 27 SC
  • 3537 (1960's) No seconds, super slim split case, straight lugs
  • 3569 (1970's) Center seconds, automatic, small straight lugs
  • 3468 (1960's) No seconds, tiny curved lugs
  • 3588 (1970's) No seconds, automatic, "Ultra Thin", small curved lugs or integrated bracelet
  • 3821 (1990's) No seconds, integrated bracelet
  • 5012 (1990's) Center seconds, automatic, date, small, straight lugs

Short lugs

  • 584 (1950's) Small seconds, short lugs

Teardrop Lugs

  • 590 (1940's) Small seconds, tear drop lugs, Cal. 10-105
  • 1461 (1940's) Small seconds, tear drop lugs, Cal. 10-110, 32 mm
  • 1509 (1940's) Small seconds, tear drop lugs, Cal. 12-120, 35 mm
  • 3820 (1980's) No seconds, tear drop lugs, screwed case, Cal. 177, 33 mm

Disco Volante

Many Calatrava cases are called "Disco Volante" ("flying saucer") for their stepped round cases. It is Ref. 2552 that is considered the definitive example of this model, but others feature similar cases. Notably, Disco Volante watches have a crown that rests inside the outer circular portion of the case, lining up with the raised bezel.

  • 2484 (1950's) Small seconds, small Disco Volante case, stepped curved lugs, Cal. 10-200 , 33 mm
  • 2501 (1950's) No seconds, crown in case sides, small "Disco Volante", tiny lugs, 34 mm
  • 2525 (1950's) Small seconds, Disco Volante case, stepped case and stepped curved lugs, Cal. 10-200, 36 mm
  • 2551 (1950's) Small seconds, automatic "Disco Volante", screw back, stepped curved lugs, Cal. 12-600 AT, 35 mm
  • 2552 (1950's) Small seconds "Disco Volante" two-step case, automatic Cal. 12-600 AT, small scrolled lugs

Fancy Cases

  • 4895 Ladies, manual, no seconds, Cal. 215, fancy case
  • 5090 (2000's) Center seconds, automatic, date, sculpted case "Russian Watch"
  • 5123 (2012-2016) (Automatic, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS) Modern, tapered case, sapphire case back

Integrated Bracelet

  • 3418 (1950's) Small seconds, convertible integrated bracelet or lugs, Cal. 12-400 or 27 AM 400, 35 mm
  • 3514 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic, integrated bracelet or lugs, Cal. 27-460M, 34 mm
  • 3611 (1980's) No seconds, integrated bracelet, 33 mm
  • 3665 (1960's) No seconds, automatic, integrated bracelet, Cal. 27-460 M
  • 3565 (1960's) Small seconds, automatic or no seconds, automatic, date, integrated bracelet, Cal. 27-460M, 36 mm

Ladies

Main article: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ladies
  • 3276 No seconds, manual, 25 mm
  • 4707 (1990's) No seconds, quartz, "Ladies", 20 mm
  • 4748 (1990's) No seconds, quartz, "Ladies", Cal. E15, 25 mm
  • 4809 (1990's) No seconds, "Ladies", 25 mm
  • 4820 (1990's) No seconds, Cal. E15 quartz, "Ladies", 25 mm
  • 4858 (2000's) "Ladies Moon", small seconds at 8:00, moon phase at 4:30, Cal. 16-250 PS LU, 29 mm
  • 4860 (1990's) No seconds, "Lady Officer's" screwed lugs but no hinged case back, Cal. 16-250, 28 mm
  • 4861 (2000's) No seconds, Cal. 215, 26 mm
  • 4864 (2000's) Calatrava Travel Time, Cal. 215 PS, 29 mm
  • 4895 (2000's) Fancy diamond case, manual, no seconds, Cal. 215, 34 mm
  • 4906 (2000's) No seconds, quartz, date, "Ladies"
  • 7119, 7120 (2000's) Manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS, Clous de Paris bezel, 31 mm
  • 7134 (2000's) Ladies Calatrava Travel Time, Cal. 215 PS FUS 24H, 35 mm
  • 4896 (2000's) Manual, no seconds, 33 mm
  • 4897 (2000's) Manual, no seconds, Cal. 215, 33 mm
  • 7200 (2013) Automatic, no seconds, Cal. 240, officer's style case with screwed bars, 35 mm

Clous de Paris Bezel

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119J, showing the Clous de Paris bezel
© Patek Philippe
Main article: Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris

In 1973, Patek created a modern classic Calatrava, Ref. 3520, with a round case, straight lugs, and "Clous de Paris" or "hobnail" bezel.

  • 3520 (1973) 32 mm, No seconds, some with smooth bezels, Cal. 175
  • 3590 (1970's) 36 mm, No seconds, automatic Cal. 28-255
  • 3602 (1970's) 33 mm, No seconds, automatic, date, angled lugs, Cal. 28-255 C
  • 3744 (1970's) 33 mm, No seconds, quartz
  • 3796 (1980's) 30.5 mm, Small seconds, Clous de Paris bezel sometimes but with Ref. 96 lugs, Cal. 215
  • 3802 (1980's) 33 mm Center seconds, automatic, date, integrated bracelet sometimes, Cal. 315 SC
  • 3919 (1985-2006) 33.5 mm, Small seconds, 2-part case, replaced by 5119, Cal. 215 PS
  • 3944 (1980's) No seconds, automatic or center seconds, quartz
  • 3992 (1990's) 33 mm, No seconds, automatic Cal. 240
  • 7119, 7120 (current) 31 mm Ladies, manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS
  • 5120 (2001-2016) 35 mm Automatic, no seconds, Cal. 240, sapphire case back
  • 5116, 5119 (2006-current) 36 mm Manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS, sapphire case back, 3-part case
  • Perpetual Calendar 5139 Clous de Paris Calatrava case with perpetual calendar (not called a Calatrava)

Tonneau and Grand Taille

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5130G, showing the Calatrava Grand Taille case
© Patek Philippe
Main articles: Patek Philippe Tonneau and Patek Philippe Grand Taille

The rare 1940's "Tonneau" Calatrava introduced a flowing case with lugs that became crown guards. In the 1970's, another tonneau case appeared as Ref. 3574. This case concept was resurrected as the "Grand Taille" 5107/5108, the World Time, and the modern Ref. 5227.

  • Tonneau
    • 565 (1950's) Small seconds, larger, antimagnetic, integrated case and lugs, Cal. 12-120, 34 mm
    • 1527 (1942-1950) "The Tonneau" 34 mm, center seconds, Cal. 12-120, 34 mm
    • 2406 (1950's) Small seconds, Cal. 12-120, 34 mm
    • 2448 (1940's) Small seconds, integrated case, Cal. 12-400, 35 mm
    • 2532 (1950's) Small seconds, antimagnetic, integrated case, Cal. 12-400, 35 mm
    • 2533 (1950's) Center seconds, integrated case, Cal. 27 SC, 34 mm
    • 3574 (1970's) No seconds, tonneau case, Cal. 23-300, 35 mm
  • Grand Taille
    • 5107, 5108 (2000) 37 mm, center seconds, Cal. 315 automatic, date, "Grand Taille" case with crown guards, first central rotor automatic, replaced by Ref. 5127, Cal. 315 SC, 37 mm
    • 5115 (2000's) 35 mm, Small seconds, Clous de Paris bezel, Cal. 215 PS, 35 mm
    • 5117 (2000's) 35 mm, center seconds, date, automatic, Clous de Paris bezel, Cal. 315, 37 mm
    • 5127, 5118 (2000's) Center seconds, Cal. 315 or 324 automatic, date, tonneau case with crown guards like 5107, 37 mm
    • Travel Time 5134 (2000's) Small seconds, Cal. 215/156 manual, 24 hour second timezone dial at 12:00, tonneau case with crown guards, 37 mm

Officer's Watch

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5153G, showing the Officer's case and lugs
© Patek Philippe
Main articles: Patek Philippe Officer's Watch and Officer's Watch

A true Officer's Watch has a round case with a simple dial, typically including small seconds and sector dial, a large onion crown, scrolled lugs with a screw-in strap bar, and often a hinged ("Officer's") solid case back. Patek created an Officer's Calatrava for their 150th anniversary in 1989, Ref. 3960. This case was the inspiration for a series of modern watches in the following decades. Note that Ref. 5022 is often called an Officer's watch but lacks these features. "Lady Officer's" Ref. 4860 is closer but lacks a hinged case back.

  • 3960 (1989) "150th Anniversary" model with hinged case back, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS, 33 mm
  • 4860 (1990's) "Lady Officer's", no seconds, screwed lugs, fixed case back, Cal. 16-250, 26 mm
  • 5022 (1990's) Small seconds, often called "Officers" but without hinged case back or screwed lugs, Cal. 215 PS, 33 mm
  • 5015 (1990's) Complicated officer's watch with small seconds at 4:30, moon phase at 7:00, and power reserve at 10:30. 35 mm hinged back case, Cal. 240/152
  • 5053 (2001-2009) - 36 mm, center seconds, automatic, "Officer's Case" with hinged case back, Cal. 315 SC, 36 mm
  • 5054 (2000's) - 36 mm, small seconds at 4:30, moon phase and date pointer subdial at 7:00, power reserve at 10:30, automatic Cal. 240, "Officer's Case" with hinged case back, Cal. 240/164, 36 mm
  • 5153 (2009-present) - 38 mm, center seconds, automatic, date, "Officer's Watch" with hinged case back, Cal. 324 S C, 38 mm
  • 5159, 5160 (2000's) Center seconds, retrograde perpetual calendar with moon phase, automatic, hinged case back (not called a Calatrava), Cal. 324 S QR, 38 mm
  • Minute Repeater 5213 Retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater (not called a Calatrava), Cal. R 27 PS QR, 40 mm
  • Minute Repeater Tourbillon 5539 Minute repeater, tourbillon (not called a Calatrava)
  • Split-Seconds Chronograph 5959 Split-seconds mono-pusher chronograph (not called a Calatrava)
  • Minute Repeater 7000 (Ladies automatic minute repeater) Officer's style case with screwed bars, fixed sapphire case back, not called a Calatrava
  • Split-Seconds Chronograph 7059 (Ladies automatic chronograph) Officer's style case with screwed bars, fixed sapphire case back, not called a Calatrava
  • 7200 (2013) (Ladies automatic, no seconds, Cal. 240) Officer's style case with screwed bars, fixed sapphire case back

Offset Seconds

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6000R, showing the offset seconds layout
© Patek Philippe

Ref. 5000 introduced a unique twist: a seconds subdial at 4:30. This feature proved popular and continues today in Ref. 6006.

  • 5000 (1992-1993's) Small seconds at 4:30, automatic, sapphire case back, limited to 1000 pieces
  • 5026 (1990's) Small seconds at 4:30, automatic, sapphire case back
  • 6000 (2005-2017) (Automatic, small seconds, central date hand, Cal. 240 PS C) Classic tapered lugs, sapphire case back
  • 6006 (2016-) (Automatic, small seconds, central date hand, Cal. 240 PS C) Classic tapered lugs, sapphire case back

Weblinks

Literature