Patek Philippe Nautilus 5990 1A 001
© Patek Philippe
This is the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph model from the second generation of the Nautilus family.
Although the Nautilus line had become legendary since its launch in 1976, there had never been a chronograph model before the 2006 launch of Ref. 5980. For 2014, this steel version of this incredibly popular watch was replaced by this Ref. 5990, a chronograph with second timezone support. As with the rest of the Nautilus line, it draws inspiration from the design by the famous watches designer Gérald Genta. The case is quite large but the thin case and integrated bracelet makes it wear smaller. Although known mainly as a steel watch, the Nautilus was also available in steel and gold, 18K yellow and white gold, as well as platinum.
Patek measures the case at 40.5 mm (from 10 00 to 4 00) but others refer to it as 44 mm (as measured across the dial, from 9 00 to 3 00). Unlike the original Nautilus, with its straight hinge, the new Nautilus family is convex at the hinge and crown, matching the bezel. The chronograph model adds two buttons above and below the crown, changing the Nautilus silhouette for the first time. This new case is also composed of three main components rather than two The solid, monobloc back is gone, with a sapphire crystal allowing the movement to be viewed, as on the short-lived 3711 and 3712. The side-mounted bezel screws remain, though they now form a “sandwich” with the case back rather than attaching to it directly.
As with the Nautilus 5980, the 5990 has limited functions to keep the dial as clean as possible. The chronograph minute counter is placed in a subdial at 6 00, but it lacks an hour counter as on the 5980. The 12 00 subdial shows (local) date, while windows at 3 00 and 6 00 show day/night in both local and home timezone. The time is temporarily adjusted for travel using pushers on the left side, disguised as the traditional Nautilus hinge. For this reason, the Ref. 5990 has an entirely different case from the rest of the Nautilus family. The movement used, Calibre CH 28-520 C FUS, is the same as in the 5980 but with the added calendar and second timezone functionality.