Universal 285

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Calibre 285 is a chronograph watch movement from Universal Genève.

Likely conceived by Martel and shared with Zenith, Calibre 285 was introduced around 1942 and produced for half a century after. Calibre 285 and its relatives remained competitive all that time thanks to solid engineering, including an 8-column pillar wheel design, two button operation, and compax design.

Calibre 285 used Martel's variable-diameter plate technology: By interchanging cam plates, the movement could be produced as 14, 15, 15.25, or 15.75 ligne sizes (Calibres 285, 287, 288, and 292, respectively). The later Calibre 385 and Calibre 387 were variations on Cal. 285 and 287 with flat hairsprings instead of Breguet hairsprings.

Variants

  • Breguet hairspring
    • Universal Calibre 285/Zenith Calibre 146 - 14 ligne
    • Universal Calibre 287/Zenith Calibre 156 - 15 ligne
    • Universal Calibre 288 - 15.25 ligne
    • Universal Calibre 292/Zenith Calibre 166 - 15.75 ligne
  • Flat hairspring
    • Universal Calibre 385
    • Universal Calibre 387

See also

Description:

Hand winding
Column wheel chronograph

Functions:

Hours, minutes
Small seconds
60 second, 30/45 minute counters

Data:

14, 15, 15.25, or 15.75 lignes
D 31.7, 33.2, 34.2, or 35.2 mm, H 6.05 mm
17 jewels
18000 A/h

Production period:

1942-