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Patek Philippe Calatrava Clous de Paris
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5120
© Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe makes a successful line of dress watches in Bauhaus style with Clous de Paris guilloche around the bezel.
In 1973, Patek created a modern classic Calatrava, Ref. 3520, with a round case, straight lugs, and “Clous de Paris” or “hobnail” bezel. This simple 2-handed watch spawned a family of watches, larger and smaller cases, quartz and automatic movements, and complications.
The original Ref. 3520 was an immediate success, so Patek Philippe added additional members of the family. A larger model (36 mm instead of 32 mm), Ref. 3590 also added an automatic movement. The quartz Ref. 3744 was very similar to the original in size and appearance.
The first model with center seconds was Ref. 3802 of the 1980's. A small seconds model, Ref. 3919, was added in 1985 and became a standard-bearer for the model until 2006.
The line was refreshed in the 1990's with new movements. Ref. 3944 was the new quartz model, adding a center seconds hand and date window. On the automatic side was the new 2-handed Ref. 3992 with Cal. 240.
The 2000's saw the switch to a 3-part case with a sapphire case back, allowing the movement to be seen. A smaller 31 mm model, Ref. 7119 was also added, with small seconds thanks to Cal. 215 PS. Today, this is one of the larger Ladies Calatrava models. The latest automatic 2-handed model is Ref. 5120, which was introduced in 2001 and retired in 2016, with a larger 35 mm case and the new Cal. 240. The hand-winding Ref. 5119, appearing in 2006, has a 36 mm case, small seconds, and Cal. 215 PS.
Another unusual member of the family is the Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 5139. It looks just like the contemporary Calatrava models but adds a perpetual calendar and is does not use the Calatrava name.
- 3520 (1973) 32 mm, No seconds, some with smooth bezels
- 3590 (1970's) 36 mm, No seconds, automatic PP 28-255
- 3744 (1970's) 33 mm, No seconds, quartz
- 3802 (1980's) 33 mm Center seconds, automatic, date, integrated bracelet sometimes
- 3919 (1985-2006) 33.5 mm, Small seconds, 2-part case, replaced by 5119
- 3944 (1990's) 33 mm, No seconds, quartz or center seconds, quartz
- 3992 (1990's) 33 mm, No seconds, automatic Cal. 240
- 7119, 7120 (current) 31 mm Ladies, manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS
- 5116, 5119 (2006-2021) 36 mm Manual, small seconds, Cal. 215 PS, sapphire case back, 3-part case
- Perpetual Calendar 5139 Clous de Paris Calatrava case with perpetual calendar (not called a Calatrava)
- 6119 (2021-present) 39 mm Manual, small seconds, Cal. 30-255 PS, sapphire case back
Due to the success of the original Ref. 3520, Patek Philippe applied Clous de Paris to other models in the Calatrava family. These models are not directly in the classic Bauhaus line but are essential to the importance of this design to the company.